Chinese Waill in the “Bob”, between Benchmark Ranch and Lincoln, MT.
I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.
Now comes the controversy…Benchmark Ranch, MT:I didn’t meet Beverly.I sent her my package and my holding fee.I also spoke with her in East Glacier (not just leaving her a message) and told her my arrival date.My package was there waiting for me.I stayed there overnight on the porch of an unused cabin.Beverly wasn’t there and the ranch was closed so we had free reign but were nervous about that since we didn’t know any of the rules of the place.The walk to Benchmark was seemingly long for the 1.5 miles off the trail Yogi says it is.If it hadn’t been raining when I got there, then I probably would have resupplied, eaten dinner and hiked out but since it was raining, I ate there, camped there, and hoped that it was ok that I stayed on one of the cabins (not Beverly’s) porches.I am not sure if I would stop there again.It’s a fair bit of nerves not knowing for sure if she has your package out there or not.But it worked out for me so no complaints.
The other option is…Augusta, MT:I didn’t go to Augusta.When walking to the Ranch, we eventually got offered a ride by the first car that drove by… I am sure they would have taken us to Augusta since they have to go that way.Nocona and Bald Eagle went to Augusta and loved it.A few hikers have not intended to go there but had to because their package was not at the Ranch and they needed food.So, if you send a package to the Ranch, don’t send maps in it…carry your maps, that way if you need to go to Augusta for food, you can but getting maps and guide books there would probably not happen… otherwise, Augusta, Benchmark…carry straight thru…your choice.
Lincoln, MT:I had a great time in Lincoln.My friend met me at Rogers Pass and we went to Missoula from there.Then he dropped me back off at the Pass and I hiked to Flesher Pass.I wasn’t feeling great so WILDCAT and I hitched back to Lincoln (it took a while but we got it) and hung out with 8 other hikers.Then we arranged a slack pack from Flesher Pass to Stemple Pass and stayed another night and had a 4th of July BBQ with 8 or so hikers.Good times.I didn’t shop there, I only ate there once, there rest of the time, our hiker friends with cars got food while we were slacking and we just chipped in money.
Helena, MT:Helena was great.My friend Good-to-Go (Thomas McArdle), who hiked Glacier with me and Dad, lives there.He picked me up down town and drove me everywhere I needed to go.Helena could be pretty spread out if you don’t have a car.I think Mags stayed at the Lamplighter Motel (not sure) and he seemed happy with it.I stayed with Good-To-Go.
I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.
Arrival-Montana-Glacier National Park
I arrived in East Glacier in time to get the shuttle to Many Glacier.I got my permit in Many Glacier at the Ranger Station.I was going to camp in Many Glacier that night and get the shuttle to the border the next morning but it was yucky out.My next plan was to get a cheap cabin at the Swift current Motor in and leave a resupply package there but in 2007 it didn’t open until the 17th so instead, I stayed at the expensive (but on my Dad’s tab) Many Glacier Hotel.The Ranger (I had an awesome Ranger, Mark W.) let me keep my resupply package at the Ranger Station.
The next morning I caught the shuttle to the border…it was a thru hiker party.
Many Glacier, MT:Spread out and potentially expensive but if you’ve just spent two days in rain and cold and it’s still raining, then staying at Swiftcurrent might be nice.In 2007 the price for a cottage without a bath was $50.Depending on the time of year you are hiking, you might want to stop in at the Lodge on the walk into “town”.Have the front desk call the Swiftcurrent to see if they have rooms and to see if the restaurant it open.It’s a little bit of a walk to find out that it’s not open yet. If the Swiftcurrent restaurant is closed, The Many Glacier Lodge has a restaurant and a bar (eating at the Bar is cheaper).The Lodge also has a large fire place in the lobby so if you show up soaking wet, it’s a good place to dry off before you get lunch/dinner.We ate lunch (we only hiked 8 miles that day) at the Lodge and the Swiftcurrent restaurant opened for dinner so we ate there for dinner.
Two Medicine, MT:I think I ate 8 hotdogs for dinner there.They were good.You could hike 2 different routes that meet back up right before you cross the bridge to get to Two Med.I took the shorter route.I am glad I did, there was a ton of snow the other way (Dawson’s Pass).
At the store, you could buy dinner and snacks for the 10 miles to East Glacier here.I can’t remember if I did that or not.It was a decent store for a tourist trap and like I said, only 10 miles to East Glacier.As for camping here…let me tell you the hiker/biker sites are sub-optimal…ok they suck (I don’t typically use that word but it pretty much sums it up).They are all really gravelly.The better option (in 2006 this worked, but not in 2007) is to talk with the camp hosts (in 2006, they were nice…not too friendly in 2007) and if you are with a good number of hikers, ask if you can use the group site.It is much, much nicer camping.
East Glacier, MT:I rather liked East Glacier.I stayed at the Backpacker’s Inn (behind Serrano’s) one time and at a hotel (maybe the Circle R) that was recently upgraded.They were definitely different experiences.I think the Backpacker’s Inn could be a ton of fun with other hikers (it was in 2006) and really convenient to Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant (eat there) and the Glacier Park Trading Post (store) and the Trails End Saloon/Tavern where hikers have been known to live it up in the past.I sent a resupply package to the Trading Post but also bought a few things there since they held my package.They were super nice when I was there.
As many of you may know I am now working for the Pacific Crest Trail Association as their Southern California Regional Representative.I love hiking, trails (especially the PCT) and I am honored to be an advocate for one of our National Scenic Trails.Many people ask me how they can get involved with trails and how they could have a job like mine.I have listed 10 resources for people looking to break into trail work, trail maintenance, and/or trail construction.Without further ado…
The Student Conservation Association:if you are 15 or older, you can get involved with this Conservation Association, check out their programs, opportunities to earn education awards and opportunities to live and work outdoors.
The Rocky Mountain Youth Corps:if you are 16 or older, you have the opportunity to be on one of the Corps Crews, living and working outside, earning an education awards and having a great experience.I have worked with the Rocky Mountain Youth Corps (RMYC) before and they run a great program and support their crew members.
Southwest Conservation Corps:another opportunity for those 16 and older.Southwest Conservation Corps (SCC) has a few offices in southern Colorado and Arizona and offers the opportunity to live and work in the outdoors.
The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative:this is where I worked seasonally for two summers.They have many options from volunteering, to becoming a volunteer peak steward or applying for one of their field positions.If you are looking for experience, the Outdoor Leadership Intern (OLI) might be the position for you.
The Los Angeles Conservation Corps:according to their website the LA Conservation Corps’ primary mission is to provide at-risk young adults and school-aged youth with opportunities for success by providing them with job skills training, education and work experience with an emphasis on conservation and service projects that benefit the community.”
The California Conservation Corps:if you are between 18 and 25 this program could be for you.Even though they tout “Hard work, low pay, miserable conditions…and more!” as their motto, their mission is “protecting and restoring California’s environment and responding to disasters, becoming stronger workers, citizens and individuals through their service.”
The Continental Divide Trail Alliance:this is the youngest of the three major organizations advocating for the three north/south National Scenic Trails.They have a volunteer program that grows every year.If you are in the Rockies, check out their “Get Involved” page.
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy:the ATC runs tons of trail projects each year.To find out more, or to plan a volunteer vacation, check out their “Get Involved” page.
The Pacific Crest Trail Association:did you really think I wasn’t going to mention the PCTA?Of course I am!Whether you are looking to volunteer or searching for a job, the PCTA may have something for you.Looking for volunteer work?Click on the “Volunteer” icon on the right hand side bar.Looking for season work?We usually post seasonal (and full time) job opportunities on the left hand side bar, but just to be safe, check out our “employment” page.
Bonus:
The American Hiking Society:AHS runs many volunteer vacations.In many instances you may end up working with one of the groups I mentioned above as many of their vacations coincide with projects that the SCA, PCTA, ATC etc. are running.The AHS site give people a nation wide view of possibilities.
The US Forest Service:The USFS has many opportunities for volunteering in your local forest.Just look up your local forest and look for volunteer opportunities.If you can’t find them on the website, give the Ranger Station a call, the should be able to point you in the right direction.
I’m really excited to announce that my friend Karen “Nocona” Somers has published the first ever hiker’s guidebook to the Lone Star Hiking Trail, a 96-mile forested footpath north of Houston, Texas.
She tells me that “all my profit will be donated back to the trail, which has struggled (despite its 40-year history) to be taken seriously by the US Forest Service and other organizations. Like many trails, it relies on volunteers for its continuing existance. I’ve agreed to handle some aspects of marketing and promotion, and this is one (perhaps pathethic!) attempt at getting the word out. If I can sell enough copies, the trail gains that much more legitamacy and support when it comes time to argue for its continued protection by the USFS. I’ve been working many years now trying to promote this trail, because its the only “long distance” trail in all of Texas. That’s a shame, but it’s also a start. I am also involved in a contributing to a hiking master plan for Texas that will propose more miles, maybe thousands of miles, of hiking trails in a state that definitely deserves and needs them. This trail may end up being only the beginning of a real long distance trail, one that spans the entirety of Texas. For now, it’s a nice place to take a quiet walk, especially enjoyable in the winter season.”
I am very excited for Nocona and I hope that if you are interested in hiking in Texas that you pick up a copy of her new guide book to the Lone Star Hiking Trail. Happy Trails!
As you know, since you are reading this, I was blogging about my experiences and life on Mt. Massive in 2009.At some point my pen stopped writing, my keyboard stopped tapping.There was much to be said, there was nothing to be said.
August 19, 2009.It started out as a regular day on the mountain.We decided to get an early start since we’d be working up higher than usual.We left camp at 5 am.We did our usual stretching circle and then hiked, and hiked, and hiked.The crew was far ahead of me. On this particular day we had 7 Rocky Mountain Youth Corp, Joe, myself and Loretta from the Forest Service all at the worksite.We had one person who stayed at camp, sick.
I wasn’t feeling too great. My stomach was hurting and I was hiking slowly.I wasn’t sure if I should turn around and go back to camp but when I got to our tool cache, I figured I’d continue the lasthalf mile to the worksite, drop off my tools and assign myself a project that I could do at a very slow pace.That way I’d at least get something done.
Lunch time came and I couldn’t eat, I had no appetite.I did manage to take a nap and before I knew it, lunch was over.Hannah and I went up higher above the lunch site to work on delineating the trail.We were working on the ridgeline, kind of near where the North Halfmoon Trail and the main route connect.It was 1:45ish when my life changed forever.We were 15 minutes shy of the end of our work day.A military helicopter crashed 100 yards from my group, just on the other side of the ridge.
Many of us had wilderness first aid certifications and immediately ran over to help.We ran over scree and talus at a 40 degree slope.We did a quick safety survey and entered the scene of the accident.We innately split into groups and started caring for our patients and sent a search party out to locate 2 more soldiers and aid them in whatever way we could.
We called in a Flight-For-Life helicopter to help evacuate our patients.We did everything we could do.We were 4 miles from the nearest 4-wheel drive, dirt road and we were at 14,200 feet in elevation.We exhausted our medical supplies, capabilities and ourselves.
I won’t go into the details but I will say that on August 19, 2009 our nation lost 4 great American heroes.We lost four men who were willing to give their lives to protect the unalienable rights that many people, myself included, exercise and possibly take for granted everyday.
I take solace in the fact that I was there with them in their greatest time of need.I am glad that I can offer that to their families.Unbeknownst to them, these four men and their families have made me more appreciative, understanding and empathetic towards those in the military.I can better understand what they go though and the sacrifice both the servicemen and servicewomen and their families make in the name of our country, our safety and our freedom.It doesn’t matter how you feel about war, regardless, you should support the troops.Our troops put their lives on the line for you.So now I am that woman who approaches random uniformed service people in the airport (or other public places) and shakes their hand and says “thank you for your service to our country.”Then I walk away.I encourage you to do the same.My only regret is that I didn’t start doing this sooner.Maybe I would have randomly thanked these men.
My thoughts are constantly with their wives, children, brothers, sisters, parents and friends.I think about everyone in the 160th out of Fort Campbell.I think about the hikers who were out there, trying to summit Mt. Massive and answered the call to action.I think about Nate, the Flight Nurse and about Pete, Laraine, Joe, Rob, Max, Adam, Alex, Hannah, Fred and Loretta.I think about Natalie, Jesse, Brian, Rodney, Mizzou, Mississippi, the guy who gave up his sleeping bag and tent for first aid supplies, Freida and Dustin and the other hikers who were there that day.But mostly I think about Chad, Terry, Rob and PJ.
This article was published in the local newspaper in Deming, New Mexico. I know Adam “Panda” Bagerski as he hiked the PCT in 2005. Congratulations to all those who accomplished their goals on America’s National Scenic Trails this summer!
***note: this article was taken offline. To access it in the Deming newspaper archives, there is a fee involved. I am sorry it’s not available for us to enjoy our friends successes. To get a glimpse of my CDT hike via my slide show, click here.
I don’t think I’ll be removing my toenails to go lighter for backpacking (I did get my wisdom teeth removed…but for medical reasons) but it’s interesting none the less.
Jessie, Nigel, Meredith, Hannah, Sarah, Jennie and Hannan
August 2nd found me at the Mt. Massive Overflow trailhead meeting up with a crew from Rocky Mountain Youth Corps (RMYC) and Joe.This crew was comprised of 6 women, Sarah, Jennie, Hannah, Meredith, Jessie and Lauren, and 3 guys, Hannan, Nigel and Pete.10 of us began hiking in (Nigel didn’t join us for a few days as he was at a family reunion).It took us about 2.5 hours to hike into base camp.
We set up, ate and then headed back down to the trailhead.We had to make a second trip because we had a lot of food (we were packing in for 10 days).On the way down, Joe ran into a man who seemed to need help getting down the trail.I caught up with them and walked with them as well.The man seemed tired and wobbly on his feet.We stayed with him and made sure he got to his truck and he was fine (I later saw him in Leadville at a restaurant).
After getting to our truck, Joe and I went to town, ran some errands, I got a calzone from High Mountain Pies and we hiked back in.
August 3rd found us quarrying rock, lots and lots of rock.We also got stormed off the mountain.We managed to get about 8 hours of work in so it was a good day but we like to get a bit more done if possible.This day also found one of our teammates discovering that this job wasn’t for her.It’s a tough situation but we want our crew to have a good experience and this was just a bit much (2.5 mile hike to the worksite each day at 13,500 feet in elevation) for someone right out the gate.
August 4th found us saying goodbye to Lauren and Pete (who hiked her out).We continued to quarry rock at the work site and looked forward to the next day so we could begin building structures.Quarrying rock happens to be one of my least favorite jobs so I was excited to build.
From August 5th through the end of the hitch on the 11th we mostly built structures, we build 3 tier walls, a mono wall, a section of crush fill retained by rock, a 5 step stone staircase and started (and half completed) an 8 step stone staircase.There was also a bit of tread scratched and we started to re-contour the current trail (since we’ll have to restore it in a few weeks).
Over all, we had a good hitch.We met some really nice, fun people, I got to hang out with a bunch of BMW’s (burly mountain women) which is always refreshing and we had some fun at camp playing games, listening to music, playing guitars.We didn’t quite get as much done on the trail as I was hoping but that’s usually the case as I have high aspirations for each group.
The next hitch we’ll get a new group from RMYC (Pete will be their leader) and we’ll also get to work with Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado (VOC).Hoping to get the entire reroute done before the VOC get’s in for their long weekend.I’d love to have them doing the restoration work as I think they could really get it all done.I think it might be tight to get all of the high priority work done this summer, but I think it’s doable, just have to keep the end goal in mind, keep everyone safe and have some fun.It’s a tall order but someone’s gotta do it.
I just saw this link while perusing Backpackinglight.com. It indicates that some of our National Parks are going to waive their entrance fees this weekend. Check out the link and then get out there and enjoy some free recreation. Happy Trails!
