CDT Trail Towns:  Yellowstone National Park

I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.  There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.  To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.  This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).  Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.  Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.

Welcome to Wyoming!!!

Old Faithful Village, WY:  First things first…the PO doesn’t take ATM/Debit Cards (or at least they didn’t when I was there), so don’t expect to buy stamps and get cash back…doesn’t work here.  Also, lodging here is pretty unrealistic.  You might be able to score a room but it will probably be pricey.  Expect that you will have to hike out at least a few miles to a campsite. 

Getting a campsite and a permit can be tough.  Be patient with them in the Backcountry office.  I had a new volunteer and she was trying to be very helpful with her limited knowledge.  We calculated a 30mile day and then realized it was a 42 mile day but since we were a day away from the backcountry office when we realized we got to Heart Lake, pleaded our case to the Ranger (who was very nice) and she gave us permission to camp at a vacant site at Heart Lake.  We had a permit but it was not conducive to staying to the campsites and since we told her we would hike on and try to make it if she didn’t have a site, she worked really hard to help us.  On the flip side, I know people who didn’t have as good an experience with the same Ranger.  Trying to follow the rules and pleading your case may work.  But I found that everyone was very helpful in Yellowstone. 

Side note, you are allowed to swim/bathe/soak in coldwater streams that have hot spring empting into them as was explained to me by the Heart Lake Ranger.  She asked me if we soaked in Witch Creek (I think that’s the name) on the way into Heart Lake.  I told her “no, I didn’t think we were allowed to be in them.”  She told me that we had to avoid the hot pools but that open, flowing streams with hot water mixed in were ok.  So factor that in when hiking toward Heart Lake.  It’s right off the trail so be appropriate as it’s not too far from a road and kids may be hiking in the area. 

Grant Village, Yellowstone NP, WY:  I went to Grant Village in 2006 to camp with Skittles and Matti.  It was pretty spread out and far from the road but you could probably get a ride to it from either Old Faithful or where the CDT crosses the South Entrance Road.  I remember enjoying the shower there. 

Pacific Northwest Trail Article

Here is a link to an article posted by The Oregonian.  Good read and it’s always nice to see our National Scenic Trails get some publicity as they are national treasures.  Happy Reading!

NITRO

I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.  There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.  To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.  This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).  Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.  Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.

My next stop was Leadore, ID:  I loved Leadore.  I ate at the Velvet Elk (used to be Deb’s Sagebrush Café) and stayed at the City Park for something like $5 plus 3 for the shower.  It was fine.  It’s a short walk from town, north, toward Salmon.  The resupply here is pretty bad.  You can pick up a few things (snacks for while you are in town) and you might be able to make it work but send yourself some resupply or be prepared to hitch to Salmon. 

If you meet Roberta the Librarian, tell her I said hello…such a great person!  I didn’t go to Yogi’s “sorta store”.  That’s really the name of it and it creeped me out in ‘06 when I drove by so I didn’t even bother walking up there to check it out.  Here is a hint if you want to do laundry, on the North East side of town you’ll see the “Homestead Motel” and the “Homestead Apartments”.  The Motel is slightly north of the Apartments.  In front of the Apartments, there is a small building…it’s a laundry place.  Not sure if you are supposed to use it or not but we did (no signs posted that I saw). 

Lima, MT:  I had a good time in Lima.  We had a good crowd, WILDCAT and I got the last room available.  If you carry a cell phone and you want a room, call the Motel from the Ridge you’ll be walking for the entire day before you get to the road.  Also, you might, might, might be able to get cell reception on the road walk to the interstate.  If you get thru (Mike) will pick you up.  If you can’t get him, you can walk the mile or two (not sure what it is) up to Monida, use the Pay phone and Mike will get you.  Peat’s grill place was good, Jan’s was good.  I had a nice time in Lima.

Ok, I took an alternate route here.  I walked to Monida and then road walked to the Red Rock’s Wildlife Preserve.  I heard the section from Lima to Sawtelle/Mack’s Inn or to West Yellowstone was a real bummer so we decided to go to a bird sanctuary (Red Rock Lake I think).  It was great.  We got great trail magic at the preserve, cokes, beer, and pizza from a guy who worked there and were told about a campsite that’s free and had great drinking water.  Only draw back were the mosquitoes…they were pretty bad…good water though.  The ranger at the preserve even told us we didn’t have to purify it (have you ever met a ranger that said that?).  Finishing that road walk, we stopped at a mobile home/R.V. park and got sodas and ice cream.  I would guess that this was about 7 or so miles north of Sawtelle Resort. 

Sawtelle Resort, ID:  I stayed at the Resort (it was my birthday and we did 28 miles on my 29^th b-day).  We ate at the Island Park Village restaurant (the others were closed by the time we got situated).  I resupplied at the Robin’s Roost (I think, it’s only 38 miles or so to Yellowstone).  I think I did laundry and went in the hot tub at the resort. 

Mack’s Inn, ID:  I walked here the next morning (leisurely after check out) and went to the café, went to the PO, did my business there, went back to the café, ate (they were a bit slow so I ran to the PO in between ordering and eating), packaged some stuff, walked back to the PO and left town.  It was a short day but nice.  Depending on your schedule you should call Yellowstone, you may need to obtain permission (they issue you a permit but you don’t have to pick it up) to camp at one of the sites in the park but trail north of Old Faithful and the back country office.  You also might not need to do this.  When scheduling, keep in mind that there is no camping at Old Faithful and getting a room is tough and expensive.  Plan to hike at least a few miles to a campsite once you get to Old Faithful. 

I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.  There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.  To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.  This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).  Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.  Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.

Choices, choices…Anaconda or Butte?  I chose Anaconda, MT:  but before you get to Anaconda, you hit Warm Springs, MT:  I had a great time at Uncle Buck’s…it’s not creepy at all.  There were 10 of us, drinking at 11 am and eating mozzarella sticks.  Good times.  Hydrate because it’s a long road walk to Anaconda.  Anaconda, MT:  in 2007, I got trail magic and had some hiker friend’s sister pick me up and take me to her house (in the next town over).  In 2006, I did some trail magic of my own and stayed at the Trade Winds Motel.  It was ok, old, but clean enough.  Go to the pizza place (Stageline Pizza), they heard what I was doing and gave me free bread sticks.  The Albertson’s and Safeway are at opposite ends of town and the Safeway is on the way out of town so use that nugget of info and plan accordingly. 

Butte, MT:  I didn’t go to Butte but Matti (2006…Speedo was his trail name) did and he seemed to think it was a fine stop.  Some other hikers I know, went to Anaconda and hitched to Butte on their zero to catch a movie.  Butte seemed spread out when I drove thru there in 2006.

Talk about choices:  Lost Trail/Chief Joseph Pass.  From here you have 5 choices.  On my thru hike, I went to Darby, MT but I’ve been to all 5.  I’ll run them down as I see it. Darby, MT:  this is where I went on my thru hike.  I had been there in 2006 while sneaking up on my hiking friends.  Darby is fairly compact (especially if you stay where I did) and has everything I need in a town.  I stayed at the Travellers Rest Cabins both times.  They gave me a tiny discount for being a hiker (with a hiker in 06).  Not sure if they put in their hostel…they were doing the renovations on their own and it wasn’t a top priority.  People’s Market was okay…not the best resupply but far from the worst…I got plenty of food there but I vaguely remember not quite getting everything I wanted and having to make a few substitutions to my normal regimen.  Watch out for logger days, held on the 3^rd weekend of July.  It can be tough to get services then.  Overall, I liked Darby a lot and the people were nice.

Sula, MT:  If you are looking to just pick up a maildrop and eat a breakfast or lunch, this might be the stop for you.  It’s the closest to the trail and doesn’t have a lot of things to spend money on.  It looks like a rest stop/gas station on the road.  It has some lodging and camping, laundry, even showers and a place to send your package (this is not the PO but the store…follow Yogi’s directions). 

North Fork, ID:  Not a bad option either.  Has a PO (good for outgoing mail/postcards, buying stamps), showers, laundry, a tiny bit of resupply and a restaurant.  The restaurant seemed to be closed a fair bit in 2006 so if you are planning this as your stop and you want some town food, call them before you send your package to get restaurant times. 

Wisdom, MT:  Wisdom is cute (well, small in a cute way), had good food at the Big Hole Restaurant (that’s a great name) and was friendly and it has a PO.  It’s very small and I don’t know if you could resupply there…might be best to send a package.  Not a ton of traffic on that side of the highway but it could work.

Salmon, ID:  I had a great time in Salmon in 2006.  I had a car so that helped.  It’s a bit spread out depending on where you end up staying.  I stayed at the Wagons West Motel and it was 1000 degrees and the air conditioner sucked and we had 6 of us in there.  The next night we went to the Trails End Motel…there were 2 of us (well, 2 rooms of 2), the air worked great.  Much better!  Trails End seemed to be much closer to stuff, Wagon’s West seemed far away.  This town is very hot during the day but the people were nice…I heard that the supermarket is not open on Sundays but I do remember thinking it was a pretty good market.

Here is an interesting article I read on-line…

The Lodge at Many Glacier

I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail.  There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible.  To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns.  This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides).  Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you.  Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.

Arrival-Montana-Glacier National Park

I arrived in East Glacier in time to get the shuttle to Many Glacier.  I got my permit in Many Glacier at the Ranger Station.  I was going to camp in Many Glacier that night and get the shuttle to the border the next morning but it was yucky out.  My next plan was to get a cheap cabin at the Swift current Motor in and leave a resupply package there but in 2007 it didn’t open until the 17^th so instead, I stayed at the expensive (but on my Dad’s tab) Many Glacier Hotel.  The Ranger (I had an awesome Ranger, Mark W.) let me keep my resupply package at the Ranger Station.

The next morning I caught the shuttle to the border…it was a thru hiker party.

Many Glacier, MT:  Spread out and potentially expensive but if you’ve just spent two days in rain and cold and it’s still raining, then staying at Swiftcurrent might be nice.  In 2007 the price for a cottage without a bath was $50.  Depending on the time of year you are hiking, you might want to stop in at the Lodge on the walk into “town”.  Have the front desk call the Swiftcurrent to see if they have rooms and to see if the restaurant it open.  It’s a little bit of a walk to find out that it’s not open yet.  If the Swiftcurrent restaurant is closed, The Many Glacier Lodge has a restaurant and a bar (eating at the Bar is cheaper).  The Lodge also has a large fire place in the lobby so if you show up soaking wet, it’s a good place to dry off before you get lunch/dinner.  We ate lunch (we only hiked 8 miles that day) at the Lodge and the Swiftcurrent restaurant opened for dinner so we ate there for dinner. 

Two Medicine, MT:  I think I ate 8 hotdogs for dinner there.  They were good.  You could hike 2 different routes that meet back up right before you cross the bridge to get to Two Med.  I took the shorter route.  I am glad I did, there was a ton of snow the other way (Dawson’s Pass). 

At the store, you could buy dinner and snacks for the 10 miles to East Glacier here.  I can’t remember if I did that or not.  It was a decent store for a tourist trap and like I said, only 10 miles to East Glacier.  As for camping here…let me tell you the hiker/biker sites are sub-optimal…ok they suck (I don’t typically use that word but it pretty much sums it up).  They are all really gravelly.  The better option (in 2006 this worked, but not in 2007) is to talk with the camp hosts (in 2006, they were nice…not too friendly in 2007) and if you are with a good number of hikers, ask if you can use the group site.  It is much, much nicer camping. 

East Glacier, MT:  I rather liked East Glacier.  I stayed at the Backpacker’s Inn (behind Serrano’s) one time and at a hotel (maybe the Circle R) that was recently upgraded.  They were definitely different experiences.  I think the Backpacker’s Inn could be a ton of fun with other hikers (it was in 2006) and really convenient to Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant (eat there) and the Glacier Park Trading Post (store) and the Trails End Saloon/Tavern where hikers have been known to live it up in the past.  I sent a resupply package to the Trading Post but also bought a few things there since they held my package.  They were super nice when I was there.

What did you think about Glacier National Park? 

CFI's Yale Crew 2008

10 Resources for Getting into Trail Work

As many of you may know I am now working for the Pacific Crest Trail Association as their Southern California Regional Representative.  I love hiking, trails (especially the PCT) and I am honored to be an advocate for one of our National Scenic Trails.  Many people ask me how they can get involved with trails and how they could have a job like mine.  I have listed 10 resources for people looking to break into trail work, trail maintenance, and/or trail construction.  Without further ado…

1. Professional Trail Builders Association:  whether you are looking for a job or resources, this website will give you a great starting point.
2. The Student Conservation Association:  if you are 15 or older, you can get involved with this Conservation Association, check out their programs, opportunities to earn education awards and opportunities to live and work outdoors. 
3. The Rocky Mountain Youth Corps:  if you are 16 or older, you have the opportunity to be on one of the Corps Crews, living and working outside, earning an education awards and having a great experience.  I have worked with the Rocky Mountain Youth Corps (RMYC) before and they run a great program and support their crew members. 
4. Southwest Conservation Corps:  another opportunity for those 16 and older.  Southwest Conservation Corps (SCC) has a few offices in southern Colorado and Arizona and offers the opportunity to live and work in the outdoors.
5. The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative:  this is where I worked seasonally for two summers.  They have many options from volunteering, to becoming a volunteer peak steward or applying for one of their field positions.  If you are looking for experience, the Outdoor Leadership Intern (OLI) might be the position for you.
6. The Los Angeles Conservation Corps:  according to their website the LA Conservation Corps’ primary mission is to provide at-risk young adults and school-aged youth with opportunities for success by providing them with job skills training, education and work experience with an emphasis on conservation and service projects that benefit the community.”
7. The California Conservation Corps:  if you are between 18 and 25 this program could be for you.  Even though they tout “Hard work, low pay, miserable conditions…and more!” as their motto, their mission is “protecting and restoring California’s environment and responding to disasters, becoming stronger workers, citizens and individuals through their service.”
8. The Continental Divide Trail Alliance:  this is the youngest of the three major organizations advocating for the three north/south National Scenic Trails.  They have a volunteer program that grows every year.  If you are in the Rockies, check out their “Get Involved” page.
9. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy:  the ATC runs tons of trail projects each year.  To find out more, or to plan a volunteer vacation, check out their “Get Involved” page. 
10. The Pacific Crest Trail Association:  did you really think I wasn’t going to mention the PCTA?  Of course I am!  Whether you are looking to volunteer or searching for a job, the PCTA may have something for you.  Looking for volunteer work?  Click on the “Volunteer” icon on the right hand side bar.  Looking for season work?  We usually post seasonal (and full time) job opportunities on the left hand side bar, but just to be safe, check out our “employment” page. 

Bonus:

1. The American Hiking Society:  AHS runs many volunteer vacations.  In many instances you may end up working with one of the groups I mentioned above as many of their vacations coincide with projects that the SCA, PCTA, ATC etc. are running.  The AHS site give people a nation wide view of possibilities.
2. The US Forest Service:  The USFS has many opportunities for volunteering in your local forest.  Just look up your local forest and look for volunteer opportunities.  If you can’t find them on the website, give the Ranger Station a call, the should be able to point you in the right direction. 

Any resources I am missing?  Please let me know…

I’m really excited to announce that my friend Karen “Nocona” Somers has published the first ever hiker’s guidebook to the Lone Star Hiking Trail, a 96-mile forested footpath north of Houston, Texas.

She tells me that “all my profit will be donated back to the trail, which has struggled (despite its 40-year history) to be taken seriously by the US Forest Service and other organizations. Like many trails, it relies on volunteers for its continuing existance. I’ve agreed to handle some aspects of marketing and promotion, and this is one (perhaps pathethic!) attempt at getting the word out. If I can sell enough copies, the trail gains that much more legitamacy and support when it comes time to argue for its continued protection by the USFS. I’ve been working many years now trying to promote this trail, because its the only “long distance” trail in all of Texas. That’s a shame, but it’s also a start. I am also involved in a contributing to a hiking master plan for Texas that will propose more miles, maybe thousands of miles, of hiking trails in a state that definitely deserves and needs them. This trail may end up being only the beginning of a real long distance trail, one that spans the entirety of Texas. For now, it’s a nice place to take a quiet walk, especially enjoyable in the winter season.”

I am very excited for Nocona and I hope that if you are interested in hiking in Texas that you pick up a copy of her new guide book to the Lone Star Hiking Trail. Happy Trails!

Mt. Massive 2009:  The Event That Changed My Life

As you know, since you are reading this, I was blogging about my experiences and life on Mt. Massive in 2009.  At some point my pen stopped writing, my keyboard stopped tapping.  There was much to be said, there was nothing to be said. 

August 19, 2009.  It started out as a regular day on the mountain.  We decided to get an early start since we’d be working up higher than usual.  We left camp at 5 am.  We did our usual stretching circle and then hiked, and hiked, and hiked.  The crew was far ahead of me.  On this particular day we had 7 Rocky Mountain Youth Corp, Joe, myself and Loretta from the Forest Service all at the worksite.  We had one person who stayed at camp, sick. 

I wasn’t feeling too great.  My stomach was hurting and I was hiking slowly.  I wasn’t sure if I should turn around and go back to camp but when I got to our tool cache, I figured I’d continue the last  half mile to the worksite, drop off my tools and assign myself a project that I could do at a very slow pace.  That way I’d at least get something done. 

Lunch time came and I couldn’t eat, I had no appetite.  I did manage to take a nap and before I knew it, lunch was over.  Hannah and I went up higher above the lunch site to work on delineating the trail.  We were working on the ridgeline, kind of near where the North Halfmoon Trail and the main route connect.  It was 1:45ish when my life changed forever.  We were 15 minutes shy of the end of our work day.  A military helicopter crashed 100 yards from my group, just on the other side of the ridge. 

Many of us had wilderness first aid certifications and immediately ran over to help.  We ran over scree and talus at a 40 degree slope.  We did a quick safety survey and entered the scene of the accident.  We innately split into groups and started caring for our patients and sent a search party out to locate 2 more soldiers and aid them in whatever way we could. 

We called in a Flight-For-Life helicopter to help evacuate our patients.  We did everything we could do.  We were 4 miles from the nearest 4-wheel drive, dirt road and we were at 14,200 feet in elevation.  We exhausted our medical supplies, capabilities and ourselves. 

I won’t go into the details but I will say that on August 19, 2009 our nation lost 4 great American heroes.  We lost four men who were willing to give their lives to protect the unalienable rights that many people, myself included, exercise and possibly take for granted everyday. 

I take solace in the fact that I was there with them in their greatest time of need.  I am glad that I can offer that to their families.  Unbeknownst to them, these four men and their families have made me more appreciative, understanding and empathetic towards those in the military.  I can better understand what they go though and the sacrifice both the servicemen and servicewomen and their families make in the name of our country, our safety and our freedom.  It doesn’t matter how you feel about war, regardless, you should support the troops.  Our troops put their lives on the line for you.  So now I am that woman who approaches random uniformed service people in the airport (or other public places) and shakes their hand and says “thank you for your service to our country.”  Then I walk away.  I encourage you to do the same.  My only regret is that I didn’t start doing this sooner.  Maybe I would have randomly thanked these men. 

My thoughts are constantly with their wives, children, brothers, sisters, parents and friends.  I think about everyone in the 160^th out of Fort Campbell.  I think about the hikers who were out there, trying to summit Mt. Massive and answered the call to action.  I think about Nate, the Flight Nurse and about Pete, Laraine, Joe, Rob, Max, Adam, Alex, Hannah, Fred and Loretta.  I think about Natalie, Jesse, Brian, Rodney, Mizzou, Mississippi, the guy who gave up his sleeping bag and tent for first aid supplies, Freida and Dustin and the other hikers who were there that day.  But mostly I think about Chad, Terry, Rob and PJ.